Teton Skincare Publishing Desk

February 17, 2026

Why "Natural" Lip Balms Are Quietly Switching to Seed Oils

Remember When Burt's Bees Felt Different?

 

You probably remember your first tube.

 

The yellow packaging. The tingle of peppermint. The feeling that you'd finally found something that actually worked and that you could actually trust.

 

Burt's Bees built that trust honestly. It started in 1984 when a Maine beekeeper named Burt Shavitz picked up a hitchhiker named Roxanne Quimby in his yellow pickup truck. 

 

She noticed his surplus beeswax. They found an old recipe book. They started making candles and selling them at craft fairs.

 

Their first sale was $200. By end of year one: $20,000. Their first office was a one-room schoolhouse rented for $150 a year.

 

The lip balm came in 1991. The formula was almost laughably simple: beeswax, vitamin E, peppermint oil. That was it. No filler. No chemistry degree required to read the label.

 

That simplicity was the whole point. Burt himself lived in a 300 square foot turkey coop with no electricity and no running water. He had no phone, no computer. He was the real thing, and the product reflected it. 

 

That's what you were buying. Not just lip balm. A set of values.

 

So what happened?

What Happened Next

 

Something changed. It's hard to say exactly when. 

 

The tube looked the same. 

The yellow packaging, the little round tin, the peppermint tingle that had always been the whole point. 

 

But at some point it just... didn't feel the same anymore.

 

 

The Acquisition Timeline
The Record

What Was Happening Behind the Scenes

While you were reaching for the yellow tube, a very different story was unfolding in boardrooms.

1999
The Original Beekeeper Cashes Out
The man whose face appears on every tube is bought out of the company he co-founded. His name stays on the label. His ownership does not.
Compensation: a house valued at $130,000.
The man becomes a logo.
2004
Private Equity Arrives
AEA Investors acquires 80% of the company for $173 million. The co-founder retains 20% and a board seat. As part of the arrangement, the original beekeeper receives $4 million — a line item in a deal memo.
From a $200 craft fair to a nine-figure private equity transaction.
Same logo. Different owners.
October 31, 2007
A Surprise Announcement
Employees are gathered in a room. Two executives walk to the front. They are wearing bee costumes. It is Halloween.

They announce that the company — started at a craft fair, built in a one-room schoolhouse rented for $150 a year — has just been sold for $925 million.
🐝 The costumes were presumably meant to soften the news. The acquiring company makes bleach, Pine-Sol, and Liquid-Plumr.
Clorox. The bleach people. $925,000,000 — announced in bee costumes, on Halloween.

When Big Business Discovered Clean Beauty

 

People were reading labels for the first time. Whole Foods was becoming a cultural signifier not just a grocery store. The word "natural" was moving from niche to mainstream and there was real money chasing it.

 

Clorox saw it coming. They had the trucks, the shelf relationships, the retail muscle to put a natural product in front of millions of people who'd never heard of it. 

 

At $925 million you don't make lip balm the way a beekeeper makes lip balm. You make it the way a publicly traded company makes lip balm — which means every ingredient gets weighed against a cost spreadsheet. 

 

Beeswax is expensive, supply-limited, and artisan by nature.

Ingredient Comparison

What Changed

A popular natural lip balm — the original formula versus today's

Est. 1991
The Original Formula
3 ingredients
Beeswax
Vitamin E
Peppermint Oil
Post-Acquisition
The Same Product Today
12 ingredients
Beeswax
Vitamin E
Peppermint Oil
Coconut Oil
!
Sunflower Seed Oil Seed Oil
Lanolin
Rosemary Leaf Extract
!
Soybean Oil Seed Oil
!
Canola Oil Seed Oil
Limonene
Linalool
Eugenol
Beeswax
$0.30
per gram
VS
Canola Oil
$0.02
per gram
Present in the original 1991 formula
Added after acquisition — not in the original formula
! Seed oil added post-acquisition — discussed further below
Source: current ingredient list, leading natural lip balm brand
Research by Teton Skincare — because you deserve to know what's in your lip balm

Is Canola Oil in Lip Balm Actually Safe?

 

The seed oil debate is everywhere right now. But almost nobody is asking the question specifically about lip balm. Which is strange, because lip balm is the one product you actually eat.

 

The FDA estimates the average person ingests around 24mg of lip product every day. That's through normal use like licking your lips, eating, drinking. It adds up. And it means the ingredient conversation that applies to food applies here too.

 

Lip Balm Isn't Skincare. It's Closer to Food.

 

Most seed oil research studies dietary intake with controlled amounts, consumed with full meals and antioxidants. 

 

Nobody has specifically studied what happens when you repeatedly ingest small amounts of canola oil that has been sitting open in a metal tube, exposed to air, heat, and light for weeks.

 

That matters because seed oils are chemically unstable. Polyunsaturated fats oxidize when exposed to air and heat, producing compounds that even mainstream researchers take seriously at elevated levels.

 

In food, you manage this by cooking fresh oil and not reusing it indefinitely. In a lip balm, there is no freshness window.

 

At Best, It's a Cheap Filler.

 

The cosmetic industry's own documentation is straightforward about why canola oil ends up in lip balm. It acts as a binding agent, increases emulsion stability, and improves texture. 

 

It costs approximately $0.02 per gram compared to $0.30 for beeswax. The original formula didn't contain it.

 

At best, it's doing nothing for you: a cost-cutting measure dressed up in a natural-sounding ingredient list. At worst, it's a question nobody in the cosmetics industry is particularly motivated to answer.

 

What To Actually Do About It

 

Reading about acquisition timelines and oxidation chemistry is one thing. Standing in a drugstore aisle trying to pick a lip balm is another. Here's how to make it simple.

 

Learn to Read the Label

 

Cosmetic ingredient lists are ordered by concentration: highest amount first. This one fact changes everything.

 

If petroleum or a seed oil appears in the first five ingredients it isn't a trace amount added for texture. It's a primary component of what you're about to put on your lips twenty times today. Scan the top five. 

 

If you see petroluem or petrolatum, canola oil, soybean oil, or sunflower seed oil before you see beeswax, then you know what the formulation is actually built on. 

 

A clean lip balm doesn't need a long list. Complexity isn't quality. In lip balm, a long ingredient list is almost always a cost story, not a performance story.

 

Four Things a Clean Lip Balm Should Have

 

Before you buy anything, ask four questions. Does the ingredient list have fewer than six ingredients? Can you pronounce all of them? Is the primary ingredient something your body actually recognizes like beeswax or tallow? And is there a real person behind the brand you can actually contact?

 

That last one matters more than it sounds. A founder who answers emails makes different ingredient decisions than a product team managing a portfolio brand.

 

Why "Natural" Lip Balms Are Switching to Seed Oils

 
Most Brands
Teton
Ingredients
Primary moisturizer
Seed oils & petroleum
Grass-fed beef tallow
Filler oils
Canola, sunflower, soybean
Golden jojoba oil
Ingredient count
10–15 ingredients
5 real ingredients
Pronounceable?
Scent source
Synthetic fragrance
Tangerine essential oil
Effect on Your Lips
Long-term moisture
Creates dependency
Builds natural moisture
Reapply constantly?
Every hour
2× a day, if that
The Brand Behind It
Ownership
Corporate
Founder-owned
Formula stability
Changed after acquisition
Same recipe since day one
Can you reach someone?
Founder answers emails
Packaging
Material
Single-use plastic
Kraft paper tube
Production
Mass manufactured
Small batch

The pattern

Most commercial lip balms share the same profile: a dozen ingredients, seed oil fillers, synthetic fragrance, plastic packaging, and no one to call. That's not a coincidence — it's a cost structure. Five ingredients costs more to make than fifteen, because every one has to earn its place.

What to look for: fewer than six ingredients, all pronounceable, with a recognizable fat as the base. Everything else is negotiable.

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